THE OFFICIAL AUTO REPAIR THREAD

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Apr 26, 2003
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East Oakland, USA
NiNe2FiVe Your giving so much false/wrong info LOL . Ima see how this plays out....Proceed.
Show me where smart guy...The p1259 is the pressure switch on the rear bank. Why would you not check the continuity of the switch? Point out where I said to do something wrong outside the guides of advice that people here can do themselves. And if your just goin to come in here hella late, a start nitpicking shit im saying, either help yourself, or kick fuckin rocks, I really dont think I like you pokin your nose in here telling me Im wrong bro.
 
Jan 30, 2006
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Show me where smart guy...The p1259 is the pressure switch on the rear bank. Why would you not check the continuity of the switch? Point out where I said to do something wrong outside the guides of advice that people here can do themselves. And if your just goin to come in here hella late, a start nitpicking shit im saying, either help yourself, or kick fuckin rocks, I really dont think I like you pokin your nose in here telling me Im wrong bro.
1.Suck my Cock
2.Why tell someone to go spend $40 when it could just be an oil filter? Fuck you piece of shit mechanics.



Damn I was thinking about making a thread like this a few minutes ago, I been workin on cars for a long time, and I went to school for auto-technology, so if this thread stays popular or whatever Ill help as much as I can...

@Rasan, what kind of car is it? On most modern cars the A/C compressor is a straightforward repair if you wanted to take a weekend and change it out yourself...A replacement would be prolly be around 220-320, depending on your car...If you grab the part a shop will probably charge you 2-3 hours in labor, so like 450-550 for the whole job. On the otherhand you might want to check out your thermostat first, and then your waterpump since theyre prolly run off the same drivebelt, but that depends on your car. If your car is overheating its not as likely it would be the a/c compressor, more likely radiator/waterpump/cooling system, but shit im not there so...
__________________

On the first fucking page, The dude said his compressor was bad... And you suggested to do it himself.... Well he can't "do it himself" ...Unless he magically has an air evacuater and the proper fucking tools... Not to mention you should have told him he needs a New accumulater... Seeing as anytime you open up the system, you need change it....

And there you go suggesting people to do more/spend more than they should. Check you coolant level/color. And go from there.


Do you think I need to read through 9 pages and call your B.s? Nope, I don't. So fuck you.

Like I said before, Proceed.
 

BASEDVATO

Judo Chop ur Spirit
May 8, 2002
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man you both need to chill !!!!!! your both god damn good references... I'm turning my 1999 Honda Accord into my project, its got a 3.0 vtec what after market parts would you suggest for best street performance (besides the obvious turbo)




ohhh you know I did actually get a oil change about 2 or 3 weeks before the vtec light popped up...

what do you suggest? get another change? or do i need to flush it?
 
Apr 26, 2003
10,869
16,112
0
60
East Oakland, USA
1.Suck my Cock
2.Why tell someone to go spend $40 when it could just be an oil filter? Fuck you piece of shit mechanics.






On the first fucking page, The dude said his compressor was bad... And you suggested to do it himself.... Well he can't "do it himself" ...Unless he magically has an air evacuater and the proper fucking tools... Not to mention you should have told him he needs a New accumulater... Seeing as anytime you open up the system, you need change it....

And there you go suggesting people to do more/spend more than they should. Check you coolant level/color. And go from there.


Do you think I need to read through 9 pages and call your B.s? Nope, I don't. So fuck you.

Like I said before, Proceed.
What the fuck are you reading? I told him to check the switch first, then if its bad to change it? How is that telling him to spend $40? If a part is broken you fix it. That first page, if you read it, I told him to check out all his fluids and belts, and t-stat first, then I said it would be possible to do it himself, which it is, not everyone has the money or option to exhaust every option with a mechanic dude, its calle being helpful. And if your not going to be helpful then dont bother coming in this thread anymore. There is not one thing Ive said in here I would not, or have not done myself on my own cars. So fuck me? Naw man, fuck you.
 

Gas One

Moderator
May 24, 2006
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Downtown, Pittsburg. Southeast Dago.
I gotta get a transmission flush, power steering flush and fix a cracked belt. fuck.
im guessing either the cracked belt or transmission flush should be first?

and how severe is them thangs that i named? meaning, how long is wise to ignore that shit and spend my money on stupid shit besides my car?

drove to LA and back (5 hours or so) yesterday with no problems. i guess i should get it done next pay check or suffa.
 
Apr 26, 2003
10,869
16,112
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60
East Oakland, USA
I gotta get a transmission flush, power steering flush and fix a cracked belt. fuck.
im guessing either the cracked belt or transmission flush should be first?

and how severe is them thangs that i named? meaning, how long is wise to ignore that shit and spend my money on stupid shit besides my car?

drove to LA and back (5 hours or so) yesterday with no problems. i guess i should get it done next pay check or suffa.
I would change the belt, and just do the other 2 flushes when you have the time and money. Its an automatic yeah? Who told you they needed to be flushed? Was it the guy at the oil change place? Theyre gonna tell you it needs to be changed every time, and theyll put some dirty fluid next to some clean fluid and make you think its supposed to be bright red. ATF gets dirty almost as soon as it goes in, and its made to last a real long time. Fix the belt so something else doesnt start to act up, and do the flushes when you have the extra scratch and dont trip off it too hard.
 

Gas One

Moderator
May 24, 2006
39,741
12,147
113
44
Downtown, Pittsburg. Southeast Dago.
I would change the belt, and just do the other 2 flushes when you have the time and money. Its an automatic yeah? Who told you they needed to be flushed? Was it the guy at the oil change place? Theyre gonna tell you it needs to be changed every time, and theyll put some dirty fluid next to some clean fluid and make you think its supposed to be bright red. ATF gets dirty almost as soon as it goes in, and its made to last a real long time. Fix the belt so something else doesnt start to act up, and do the flushes when you have the extra scratch and dont trip off it too hard.
yeah its a automatic. cars only about 3 years old but i drive alot. and yeah it was the mexicans at big O tires lmao. i honestly dont even be trippin off what they be talkin about cuz i dont trust no one who smokes cigarettes while fixing cars. lol. i usually go to the dealership but i just needed a quick oil change.

ill get the belt fixed this coming up week then. good looking out.
they quoted me somethin like 89.99, dunno if i should shop around and shit. im not too huge on cars as long as my shit runs im good
 
Apr 26, 2003
10,869
16,112
0
60
East Oakland, USA
yeah its a automatic. cars only about 3 years old but i drive alot. and yeah it was the mexicans at big O tires lmao. i honestly dont even be trippin off what they be talkin about cuz i dont trust no one who smokes cigarettes while fixing cars. lol. i usually go to the dealership but i just needed a quick oil change.

ill get the belt fixed this coming up week then. good looking out.
they quoted me somethin like 89.99, dunno if i should shop around and shit. im not too huge on cars as long as my shit runs im good
If its just a belt, Id say do it yourself, but you dont seem like the dude to be doin shit on his own car like that. Parts cost and labor a ballpark of like $90 sounds about right. Fix whats broken, everything else do what you can, when you can, you know...
 
May 4, 2002
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not a repair but i gotta a quick ?. what will take water spots off of the paint? i took the car to the wash and it didnt do shit. any cash wash/ wax products?
 

Ne Obliviscaris

RIP Cut-Throat and SoCo
Dec 30, 2004
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Question for you guys: I've got a 350 v8 in my nova, thats not stock for that car, and I have no idea what it came out of. I was changing the points and the old points have a place where a ground wire screws into the mounting. All of the points I can find that fit chevys of that era (its a '72) dont have a place for the ground wire to attach and when i dont attach the ground wire, or simply attach it to some random place on the points its a no-go. The little screw on the old points is connects to everything on the points. Anyone seen a 350 v8 where the points had a ground wire coming off them and if so what kind of car was it? It's going to be a bitch to try and find the VIN on the engine and track it down that way.

EDIT: its possible the 350 might have come out of a truck.
 

MKB

Sicc OG
Dec 19, 2002
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word up....good lookin....yeah id rather have someone do the shit so i know its done right instead of fucking around myself..
Just some tips on the transmission fluid change. If it uses a synthetic transmission fluid it is probably 60k miles between changes but you can look it up in the owners manual. It is also really important to use the right fluid because places like Jiffy Lube put regular Dexron fluid in and then additives that are supposed to bring it up to the right specs. Some cars don't do to well with the Dexron but it is the most common fluid so that is what they usually have.
 
Apr 26, 2003
10,869
16,112
0
60
East Oakland, USA
not a repair but i gotta a quick ?. what will take water spots off of the paint? i took the car to the wash and it didnt do shit. any cash wash/ wax products?
There are kinda 2 parts to a water spot. The first part is the mineral deposits you see as the white spots, that happens from minerals in the water hardening while the water evaporates when its left standing. The second part is the etching, or the tiny scratches left behind from the minerals just under the surface of the paint. The first thing you'll want to do is wash/dry the car. Then take a smooth surface clay over the water spots, I like the stuff from Maguiars, rub the clay over the spot using quik detailer as a lubricant, as the spots come up knead the clay into itself to use a clean surface...




After the mineral deposit is removed, there may still be tiny surface scratches left behind where the spot was left to sit. If you use a product called ScratchX and a cleaning pad or chamois, it will take up small scratches in the surface of the paint.



Clean up with the quik detailer and a chamois. Whenever your cleaning deeper into the surface, or top coat of paint, youll want to give the car a coat of wax when your finished.
 

BASEDVATO

Judo Chop ur Spirit
May 8, 2002
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I'm thinking headers, intake/outake exhaust...

a boy of mine was telling me its dumb to put money into something that will always get beat out by manual with same specs...


not that im going to be racing it crazy... just want a sleeper to smash on once in awhile....









thanks for your input... im using teh google too