HELP HEADLIGHTS URGENT!!!!!!!

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Apr 16, 2003
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#21
****I was able to post the thread***


I did this project today and thought I'd post up some info for people who haven't done it before. Googling "wet sanding headlights" brings up a million slightly different methods, but the idea is the same. Knock off the damaged areas with rough grit sandpaper, and use progressively finer abrasive to polish out the deeper scratches until clarity is restored.

Items used:

1. painter's easy release tape (available at WalMart paint section)
2. 3M #03900 Rubbing Compound (available at WalMart auto/body section)

3. 3M #39109 Swirl Mark Remover (available at NAPA) IPB Image

4. 3M Imperial Wet or Dry sandpaper 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit (available at WalMart auto/body section)

5. bucket of soapy water
6. Porter Cable 7336 random orbital buffer & foam pads (I already had this. You can do the final polishing by hand, but it is a little more work.)
7. microfiber towels (I already had this. Any nice, non-scratching towels should do fine.)


Step 1:

* Clean the headlights with liquid dish soap to remove any garbage. Dish soap strips oils and waxes, which is good for the lights, but if you just waxed, be prepared to re-wax.

Step 2:

* Prepare a bucket of room temperature water with some soap in it. My mixture was too soapy, you want just enough to add lubrication to the sanding process.

Step 3:

* Mask off the area around the headlights. This is to prevent messing up your body when the sandpaper runs off the headlights. It will happen, so just do it!


Step 4:

* Soak a small section of your roughest grit paper in the soapy mix for a minute or two. Then start sanding. I would advise using an "up and down" and "side to side" motion only. Circular motion creates swirl marks that can be hard to get rid of. TIP: If you use side to side only, then use up and down on your next grit paper. This will allow you to see clearly when you've gotten rid of the previous scratches.

Step 5:

* Sand until damaged area is gone. TIP: Every so often, rinse and DRY the headlight. This will allow you to see the area clearly. Just rinsing is not good, as the water makes the headlight appear smoother.

Step 6:

* Continue this process using finer grit papers until the damage is gone, and your headlights look like a milky mess. Don't worry, this will buff out.

Step 7:

* When you are done sanding, wash the headlight again. Now we polish. I used my buffer and pads, but you can do the same by hand. I started with the 3M Rubbing Compound and buffed until the compound is pretty dry. Wipe off with towel.

Step 8:

* Using a different pad, polish with the Swirl Mark Remover until it is pretty dry. Wipe off with towel.

Step 9:

* You can wash the headlights if you choose. Some people advise using wax as a final coat, but others say the wax will eventually turn yellow. Others advise using spray cans of clear coat to re-clear the headlight. I did not wax or use clearcoat. Maybe I will in the future, but right now my arm is tired.

Step 10:

* Enjoy the fruits of your labor. Have a beer or ten.

Here is what I started with:

Here is one headlight done:

Here is sanded, but not yet polished light:


Completed:
 
Nov 16, 2006
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#23
damn i made them worse

my friend told me that brake fluid works but then it just shined them up so i tried scraping them off, which got worse

used soapy water and toothpaste and it took the worse off so now im back to normal

tomorrow ill go to the hardware shop and buy some sand paper but which kind should i get

AND FOR THOSE WHO SAID I DIDNT GOOGLE IT I ACTUALLY DID....it just took me to buy some astupid product that made them better.

thanx for the help even though sometimes i act like a idiot
 
Nov 16, 2006
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#27
Likwid said:
You can buy a cheap buffer for less than 20 bucks. But if you want you can do it by hand, it will take like 30x as long.
so if i do it by hand i just do circular motions or back and forth and up and down

and how much sand papers do i buy do they all have to be differant
 

Sneak

Sicc OG
May 11, 2002
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#30
REDRUM559 said:
so if i do it by hand i just do circular motions or back and forth and up and down

and how much sand papers do i buy do they all have to be differant
Dude if you dont have all the polishes and shit its going to cost a lot of cash. You need to buy sand paper + all the polishes and pads. Why dont you try to get some stuff from auto zone first? If your not content with the outcome then go ahead and buy 20 or 30$ worth of stuff.
 
Apr 16, 2003
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1,365
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#31
REDRUM559 said:
so if i do it by hand i just do circular motions or back and forth and up and down

and how much sand papers do i buy do they all have to be differant
Yeah if you want you can do it by hand, might want to get some good cloths and some microfiber ones. As far as sandpaper if you want best results go by what's posted. You work your way up to the finer grits to get a smoother finish. Do not get sandpaper you would use to say sand down your cabinets either! That shit is too coarse. Your arms will be tired without the buffer and an orbital sander.
 
Apr 16, 2003
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113
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#32
Sneak said:
Dude if you dont have all the polishes and shit its going to cost a lot of cash. You need to buy sand paper + all the polishes and pads. Why dont you try to get some stuff from auto zone first? If your not content with the outcome then go ahead and buy 20 or 30$ worth of stuff.
Yeah, you really cannot skimp out on the supplies or else you're going to waste time and do extra work.
 
May 31, 2006
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#33
for the outside there's this shit called Flitz..

and if it came from the inside, you need to seal around your lights cuz the air gets in it and fogs it up as well..